Entry: Muharram in Tehran Sunday, February 29, 2004



Every year Iranians of the Shias sect of Islam commemorate the death of a descendant of the prophet and their third Imam, Hussein  (or Hossein ibn Ali).

The climax of these ceremonies is Tasooa and Ashura (or Ashoora),9th and 10th of Muharram and 1st and 2nd March this year. These two days refer to an event almost 1400 years ago, in 61 A.H. on the lunar calendar, when Imam Hossein and 72 of his followers accepted the call of the people of Kufeh (in Iraq) to come to their aid in getting rid of their tyrannical ruler. When Imam Hossein sets off from the shores of the Red Sea, news came that the people of Kufeh had killed his messenger. The imam decides to set camp in a plain called Karbala.

Meanwhile, the ruler of Kufeh, Yazid ibn Mo’aviyeh, upon hearing of the imam’s intention, gathers an army of 2000 and comes to meet him. The two camps meet at Karbala and on two fateful days a violent battle rages in which all the followers of Hossein, except a few women and children, loose their lives.

Tehrani Shias commemorate Tasooa and Ashura in a special way. In every neighborhood, mosques stage various mourning ceremonies, as do the houses of religious personalities, and makeshift structures with colorful banners and flags play host to mourners who are then reminded of the difficulties Imam Hossein and his followers went through in that barren and waterless desert. These locations are called takiyehs (or tekiyehs).


Out on the streets and during these two days, Tehranis often come across dastehs or procession of male mourners who line up in two facing rows and beat their chests conspicuously in rhythmic motion. These usually belong to the same takiyeh. In front of the procession a cross-like banner (3-5 meters in width and 3 meters in height) can be seen with metal ornamentations. The strongest person in the group carries this banner, or alam. In the back, flags can be seen eulogizing Imam Hossein and his followers. Among the mourners there are banners called kotal in black felt on which colorful stitches in praise of the event of Karbala can also be seen.

The High Noon of Ashura  By the end of the day of Ashura, Hossein and his followers perish in the battle. To commemorate this day, city mourners take to the streets. At high noon, various processions return to their takiyehs and stand prayer.

The Night of Ashura  On the evening of Ashoora, the city of Tehran becomes scene to groups of people who shed tears while holding a candle and whispering to their God. It is commonly held that on this night God answers to the calls of the faithful. There are countless occult stories about the fulfillment of wishes on this day.

The night of Ashura is a commemoration of the survivors of the battle, who after suffering great hardship are left with the memory of those who lost their lives. As such, the ceremony is convened in candlelight and in the solitude of a personal communication with God.

   1 comments

Shideh Dashti
July 7, 2007   12:09 AM PDT
 

Very interesting!
do you know what the origin of this tradition is? where did the shia Iranians start this annual ritual and what/who was the political power behind it? I’m guessing it all started during the Safavid dynasty but do not know the details.

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